Lee Cliffs and Foreshore Walk
Exploring the geology, fossils and low-tide foreshore along the Lee coastline
The low cliffs between Lee-on-the-Solent and Hill Head expose geological strata that are roughly fifty million years old, and a walk along the foreshore at low tide is one of the most rewarding excursions for anyone with an interest in natural history. This is not a dramatic cliff walk in the Dorset or Devon sense. The cliffs are modest, rarely more than a few metres high. But what they lack in scale they make up for in geological interest.
The cliffs are formed from Eocene-era deposits, laid down when this part of Hampshire lay beneath a warm, shallow sea. The Bracklesham Beds, named after the West Sussex village where they were first described, are the principal formation visible here. They consist of alternating layers of sand, clay and sandy clay, which erode at different rates and create the stepped profile visible from the beach. Iron-stained nodules and bands of darker clay add colour and texture to the cliff face.
Fossil hunting is the main draw. The Eocene sediments contain a range of marine fossils, and fresh material is constantly being exposed as the cliffs erode. Shark teeth are the most sought-after finds, with several species represented including the sand tiger shark. Shells, including turritella, bivalves and nautiloid fragments, are common in certain layers. Fragments of turtle bone, ray dental plates and crocodilian teeth have also been found here, reflecting the tropical conditions that prevailed fifty million years ago.
The best approach is to start from Hill Head harbour and walk eastward along the foreshore at low tide. The fossil-bearing layers are most accessible between the harbour and the point where the coast turns towards Lee-on-the-Solent proper. Check tide times before setting out: this is a walk that should only be done on a falling or low tide, as the rising water cuts off sections of the foreshore against the cliff base. The Hampshire and Isle of Wight Wildlife Trust website and the Admiralty tide tables for Portsmouth both provide reliable forecasts.
Look carefully at the loose material on the beach rather than attempting to dig or hammer at the cliff face. Erosion deposits fresh fossils regularly, and the best specimens are often found lying on the beach surface or in the clay washed down from the cliffs. A small bag and a magnifying glass are all the equipment you need. Hammering or excavating the cliff face is not recommended, both for safety reasons and because it destabilises the soft sediments.
The cliffs are actively eroding, and cliff falls do occur. Keep a safe distance from the cliff base, particularly after periods of heavy rain or high tides. Never sit or climb directly beneath the cliff face. The clay becomes extremely slippery when wet, and falls can happen without warning.
The foreshore itself is a mixture of shingle, clay platforms and patches of sand. Rock pools form in the clay at low tide and contain crabs, anemones, shrimp and small fish. Seaweed species include bladderwrack and sea lettuce. The walk from Hill Head to the eastern end of Lee-on-the-Solent's developed seafront is roughly a mile along the foreshore, and allows you to examine the changing geology as you go.
This is a walk for a calm, dry day with a low spring tide for the best access. Wellies or old shoes that you do not mind getting muddy are essential. There are no facilities along the foreshore itself, but the cafes and pubs at both Hill Head and Lee are close at either end.